Photography Settings at RIAT

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A Simple Guide for Complete Beginners

When I first started aviation photography, camera settings felt like a completely different language. I knew I wanted to photograph aircraft, but I did not always understand why some photographs were sharp while others were blurred, too dark or completely out of focus.

The good news is that you do not need to understand every camera setting before attending RIAT. You only need a few reliable starting settings and a basic understanding of when to change them.

This guide is for anyone who has recently bought their first camera, has just started photography or is attending RIAT with a camera for the first time.

The settings in this guide are not fixed rules. The weather, light, aircraft and lens will all make a difference. However, they will give you a good place to start.

My biggest piece of advice is to keep things simple. Get a safe, sharp photograph first. You can then experiment once you feel more confident.

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Set Your Camera Up Before the Display Starts

I always check my camera before the flying begins, even after years of photographing aircraft.

At RIAT, you will normally see aircraft moving around before the main display starts. I use this time to take a few test photographs and make sure everything is working correctly.

There is nothing worse than waiting for a rare aircraft to appear and then realising your camera is still set up for a photograph you took the night before.

Here are the basic settings I would start with.

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Camera Mode

Use Shutter Priority.

This is shown as:

• S on Nikon and Sony cameras.

• Tv on Canon cameras.

Shutter Priority lets you choose the shutter speed while the camera works out the aperture for you.

I think this is the easiest mode for someone who is new to aviation photography because shutter speed is one of the most important settings when photographing aircraft.

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Focus Mode

Use continuous autofocus.

This may be called:

• AF-C on Nikon and Sony.

• AI Servo on Canon.

• Continuous AF on some other cameras.

This setting allows the camera to keep adjusting the focus while the aircraft moves through the sky.

Do not use a focus mode designed for still subjects when photographing flying aircraft. The aircraft will quickly move away from the original focus point.

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Burst Mode

Set the camera to continuous high-speed shooting.

This allows you to take a short burst of photographs while the aircraft passes. You will then have several images to choose from instead of relying on one photograph.

Try not to hold the shutter button down for the entire display. I normally use short bursts when the aircraft reaches the best position.

This saves battery power, reduces the number of photographs on the memory card and stops the camera buffer from filling up.

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ISO

For complete beginners, I recommend using Auto ISO.

ISO controls how sensitive the camera is to light. A higher ISO can brighten the photograph in darker conditions, but it can also add more grain or noise.

Auto ISO lets the camera adjust this for you as the light changes.

This is very useful at RIAT because an aircraft may be flying in bright sunlight during one pass and underneath dark cloud during the next.

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White Balance

Leave the white balance set to Auto.

The camera will normally do a good job of judging the colour of the light. You can change this later when editing, especially if you are shooting in RAW.

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Image Stabilisation

Turn image stabilisation on if your camera or lens has it.

Some lenses may call this:

• VR

• IS

• OSS

• Optical stabilisation

If your lens has a special panning or sport mode, this can be helpful when following aircraft from left to right.

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Understanding Shutter Speed

Shutter speed controls how quickly the camera takes the photograph.

A fast shutter speed freezes movement. A slower shutter speed allows more movement to appear in the image.

For example:

• 1/2000 is very fast and can freeze a fast-moving jet.

• 1/1000 is a good general starting point for flying aircraft.

• 1/320 can show movement in a propeller.

• 1/160 creates more propeller or rotor blur, but it is harder to keep the aircraft sharp.

At RIAT, I change my shutter speed depending on the type of aircraft I am photographing.

Jets normally need a fast shutter speed. Propeller aircraft and helicopters normally need a slower one so the blades do not look completely frozen.

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Remember the Focal-Length Rule

A simple rule I use is to make the shutter speed at least double the focal length when photographing fast aircraft.

For example, if I am using a focal length of 500mm, I try to use a shutter speed of at least 1/1000 second.

If I am photographing an F-16 against a blue sky at 500mm, I may start with:

• Shutter speed: 1/1000

• Aperture: around f/8

• ISO: Auto, or a low manual ISO in bright sunlight

• Focus mode: AF-C or Continuous AF

• Burst mode: Continuous high

This should give me a good chance of creating a sharp photograph.

The rule is not perfect for every situation, but it is a useful starting point.

If your photographs are still blurred, try increasing the shutter speed to 1/1250, 1/1600 or even 1/2000.

Fast Jets

Fast jets are often a good place to begin because the main aim is to freeze the aircraft.

I normally start at 1/1000 second for a normal fast-jet pass.

For a very fast pass, tight turn or aircraft producing vapour, I may increase this to:

• 1/1250

• 1/1600

• 1/2000

The closer the aircraft is and the faster it crosses in front of me, the faster my shutter speed normally needs to be.

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My Basic Fast-Jet Settings

• Use Shutter Priority.

• Start at 1/1000.

• Use Continuous AF.

• Use short bursts.

• Leave ISO on Auto.

• Start slightly zoomed out so you can find the aircraft.

One mistake I made when I was starting was zooming in too far before I had found the aircraft in the viewfinder.

At 500mm, the area you can see is quite small. If the aircraft moves outside the frame, it can be difficult to find it again.

I now find the aircraft at a wider focal length, follow it smoothly and then zoom in once I have it under control.

Also remember to leave a little room around the aircraft. You can crop the photograph afterwards, but you cannot replace a missing wingtip.

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Jets Taking Off and Landing

Aircraft taking off and landing can create some brilliant photographs.

You may capture afterburner, tyre smoke, a pilot waving or the aircraft rotating from the runway.

For a jet taking off, I would start between:

• 1/1000 and 1/1600

For a jet landing, I would start between:

• 1/800 and 1/1250

For a slowly taxiing jet, you may be able to reduce the shutter speed to:

• 1/500

• 1/640

• 1/800

However, remember the focal-length rule. If you are using a long lens at 500mm, a shutter speed of 1/500 may be too slow to hold steadily.

Heat haze can also make aircraft look soft, especially when photographing close to the runway on a hot day.

This is not always a focusing problem. The hot air between you and the aircraft can reduce the detail in the photograph. A faster shutter speed will not remove heat haze.

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Propeller Aircraft

Propeller aircraft need a slower shutter speed.

If you photograph a propeller aircraft at 1/2000, the aircraft may be sharp, but the propeller can look completely frozen. This can make it appear as though the engine is not running.

I normally tell beginners to start at 1/320 second.

This should show some movement in the propeller while still giving you a reasonable chance of keeping the aircraft sharp.

Once you have a few safe photographs, try reducing the shutter speed gradually.

For example:

• Start at 1/320.

• Then try 1/250.

• Move down to 1/200 if your panning feels smooth.

• Try 1/160 once you have more confidence.

Do not rush straight down to a very slow shutter speed.

I have taken plenty of photographs where the propeller looks brilliant but the entire aircraft is blurred. Get the sharp photograph first and then experiment.

For a fast aerobatic propeller aircraft, I may start closer to 1/500 second because it can change direction quickly.

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Helicopters

Helicopters are similar to propeller aircraft because you normally want some movement in the rotor blades.

A shutter speed that is too fast can make the helicopter look as though it is hanging in the sky with the engine turned off.

For beginners, I would start between:

• 1/250 and 1/320

Once you have taken a sharp photograph, try:

• 1/200

• 1/160

Different helicopters have different rotor speeds, so one setting will not work perfectly for every helicopter.

Take a few photographs, check the result when you have time and make a small adjustment.

Do not spend the entire display looking at the back of the camera. Check one or two photographs between passes and then get ready again.

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Large Transport Aircraft

Large aircraft can look slow because of their size, but they are often moving much faster than they appear.

For a normal pass from a large transport aircraft, I would start between:

• 1/1000 and 1/1250

Dont forget this all depends on lighting.

If the aircraft has propellers, such as an A400M or C-130, you may want to use a slower speed to show movement in the blades.

I would begin around 1/320 second and then work down carefully.

Large aircraft also need more room inside the frame. It is easy to zoom in too far and cut off part of a wing or tail.

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Display Teams and Formations

When photographing a display team, do not feel that every aircraft must completely fill the frame.

Leaving more space can show the shape of the formation, the smoke and the scale of the display.

For a normal formation pass, I would use:

• 1/1000 to 1/1600

For a crossover, break or fast opposition pass, I would use:

• 1/1200 to 1/2000

Listen to the display commentary because it can warn you when aircraft are approaching from different directions or from behind the crowd.

The first pass can also help you understand the display route. If the team repeats a similar move later, you will be better prepared.

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Panning

Panning means following the aircraft smoothly while using a slower shutter speed.

When it works, the aircraft stays sharp while the background becomes blurred. This can create a strong feeling of speed.

I recommend starting at:

• 1/320

• 1/250

Once you are comfortable, try:

• 1/200

• 1/160

• 1/125

Do not expect every photograph to be sharp. Even experienced photographers will take several blurred images when panning.

Stand with your feet apart and turn your upper body towards the approaching aircraft.

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Find the aircraft early, follow it smoothly and keep moving after you press the shutter button.

Do not stop moving as soon as you take the photograph. Following through is an important part of the movement.

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Static Aircraft

Static aircraft give you more time to think about the photograph.

For these, I normally change the camera to Aperture Priority.

This is shown as:

• A on Nikon and Sony.

• Av on Canon.

Aperture controls how much of the photograph appears sharp.

For a photograph of the whole aircraft, I normally start around:

• f/7.1

• f/8

• f/11

For smaller details, such as a badge, cockpit, intake or piece of landing gear, try:

• f/4

• f/5.6

This can help soften the background and make the detail stand out.

For static aircraft, I may also change the focus mode to AF-S or One Shot because the aircraft is not moving.

Before taking the photograph, walk around and look at the background. Moving a few steps left or right can remove a distracting sign, person or barrier.

I also like crouching lower or using part of the aircraft to frame the photograph. Static aircraft are a good chance to slow down and try something different.

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Photographing in Bright Sunshine

Bright sunshine can make white aircraft and reflective metal difficult to photograph.

If the aircraft is too bright and has lost its detail, try using negative exposure compensation.

Start with:

• -0.3

• -0.7

This tells the camera to make the image slightly darker.

I would rather have an aircraft that is a little dark than completely lose the detail in the white paint.

In bright sunlight, your ISO should normally stay quite low. It may remain around ISO 100, 200 or 400.

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Photographing Under Cloud

Dark aircraft against a pale cloudy sky can sometimes appear too dark.

If this happens, try adding a small amount of positive exposure compensation.

Start with:

• +0.3

• +0.7

This tells the camera to brighten the image.

Be careful not to increase it too far because you may lose all the detail in the cloud.

Under changing cloud, I normally keep the camera in Shutter Priority with Auto ISO. This lets me keep the shutter speed I need while the camera reacts to changes in the light.

A slightly noisy photograph can often be improved during editing. A badly blurred photograph is much harder to repair.

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Photographing in Rain or Difficult Weather

RIAT weather can change very quickly.

I have photographed aircraft in bright sunlight, heavy cloud, rain and strong wind, sometimes all on the same day.

In poor weather:

• Keep the shutter speed high enough for the aircraft, even if the ISO needs to increase.

• Use a rain cover or dry bag to protect the camera.

• Keep a clean lens cloth somewhere easy to reach.

• Tuck your elbows in to make the camera more stable.

• Check that straps and covers are secure in strong wind.

• Look for spray, reflections, vapour and dramatic cloud.

Some of my favourite aviation photographs have been taken in difficult weather. A plain blue sky is easier, but stormy weather can give the photograph far more atmosphere.

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Keeping the Aircraft in Focus

Keeping a moving aircraft in focus takes practice.

Start tracking the aircraft before it reaches the position where you want to take the photograph. This gives the autofocus time to lock on.

Try these simple tips:

• Begin slightly zoomed out so the aircraft is easier to find.

• Keep the focus points over the aircraft.

• Follow the aircraft for a moment before pressing the shutter.

• Use a small group or zone of focus points.

• Zoom out if the aircraft keeps leaving the frame.

• Practise following birds, cars or commercial aircraft before attending RIAT.

A sharp photograph taken slightly wider is normally better than a close photograph that is out of focus.

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A Simple Beginner Settings Checklist

Before the flying starts, I would check the following:

• Set the camera to Shutter Priority, shown as S or Tv.

• Set the focus mode to AF-C, AI Servo or Continuous AF.

• Turn on continuous high-speed burst shooting.

• Use Auto ISO while you are learning.

• Leave white balance on Auto.

• Turn on image stabilisation.

• Use a small group or zone of focus points.

• Start at 1/1000 for fast jets.

• Start at 1/320 for propeller aircraft.

• Start between 1/250 and 1/320 for helicopters.

• Use Aperture Priority around f/8 for static aircraft.

• Take a few test photographs before the display begins.

My Basic Starting Settings

Fast Jet

• Shutter Priority

• 1/1000

• Auto ISO

• Continuous autofocus

• Continuous high burst

• Image stabilisation on

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Very Fast Jet Pass

• Shutter Priority

• 1/1600 or 1/2000

• Auto ISO

• Continuous autofocus

• Short bursts

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Propeller Aircraft

• Shutter Priority

• Start at 1/320

• Auto ISO

• Continuous autofocus

• Smooth panning

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Helicopter

• Shutter Priority

• Start at 1/250

• Auto ISO

• Continuous autofocus

• Reduce the shutter speed once you have a sharp photograph

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Static Aircraft

• Aperture Priority

• f/8 for the whole aircraft

• f/4 or f/5.6 for smaller details

• Auto ISO or ISO 100 to 400

• Single autofocus or continuous autofocus

Common Problems

The Whole Aircraft Is Blurred

Increase the shutter speed.

For example, if you are using 1/500 for a fast jet, increase it to 1/1000 or higher.

Also check that you are following the aircraft smoothly and holding the camera steadily.

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The Background Is Sharp but the Aircraft Is Blurred

The camera may have focused on the sky, cloud or background.

Use a smaller focus area and keep it over the aircraft. Start following the aircraft before pressing the shutter.

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I Keep Losing the Aircraft

Zoom out.

It is much easier to find the aircraft at 200mm or 300mm than it is at 500mm.

Once you have found it, zoom in gradually.

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The Aircraft Is Too Dark

Add a small amount of positive exposure compensation.

Try +0.3 first and check the result.

The Aircraft Is Too Bright

Reduce the exposure compensation.

Try -0.3 or -0.7 to protect the detail in bright paint and clouds.

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The Propeller Looks Frozen

Reduce the shutter speed gradually.

Move from 1/500 to 1/320, then try 1/250 once you are comfortable.

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Every Panning Photograph Is Blurred

Increase the shutter speed again.

Return to 1/320 or 1/250 and practise following the aircraft smoothly before trying a slower setting.

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When Should I Try Manual Mode?

I would not recommend jumping into full Manual mode during your first airshow unless you already understand how shutter speed, aperture and ISO work together.

I made this mistake when I was learning and missed photographs because I was trying to change too many settings at once.

Shutter Priority is a much easier place to begin.

Once you feel comfortable, you could try Manual mode with Auto ISO.

For a fast jet, a useful starting point is:

• Shutter speed: 1/1250

• Aperture: f/8

• ISO: Auto

For a propeller aircraft, try:

• Shutter speed: 1/320

• Aperture: f/8

• ISO: Auto

This gives you control over the shutter speed and aperture while the camera adjusts the ISO as the light changes.

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Final Advice

Aviation photography takes practice.

You will miss photographs. You will lose aircraft from the viewfinder. You will take images that are too dark, too bright or completely blurred.

I have done all of these things, and I still occasionally get settings wrong.

The important part is learning why a photograph did not work and making one small change before the next pass.

Start with the safe settings in this guide. Get a sharp photograph first, then experiment with slower shutter speeds, tighter framing or different angles.

Most importantly, remember to enjoy the display.

Put the camera down occasionally and watch the aircraft with your own eyes. The photographs should help you remember the day, not stop you from experiencing it.

Keep practising, learn how your own camera behaves and do not worry about having the most expensive equipment.

Knowing how to use the camera you already own will make a much bigger difference than simply buying a longer lens.

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